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BY 



ACTUAL MEASUREMENT, 



OBTAINING THE SHOULDER POINT AS A CERTAINTY. 



BY 



EDWARD SCAMELL. 



BOSTON : 

PUBLISHED ZB~ST THE ATJTHOB. 

187.",. 



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BY 



ACTUAL MEASUREMENT, 



OBTAINING THE SHOULDER POINT AS A CERTAINTY. 



BY 



1/ 

EDWARD SCAMELL. 



V 






BOSTON : 

PTJBLISHED IBY THE .A-TTTIHIOIR,. 

1875. 



^ 



Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1875, by 

EDWARD SCAMELL, 
In the Office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington. 



Franklin Press: Rand, Avery, <te Co., Boston. 



TO THE TAILORING TRADE. 



Gentlemen: — I know that the Trade have many systems published 
and in use ; some that are good, and success attends them ; but as 
there is, and always has been, an uncertainty in fitting the form, or ob- 
taining the principal points, on all differently-shaped men, I was con- 
strained to try and find a method that would do this ; and after a great 
deal of toil and study, finally, I am successful ; therefore, I introduce 
it to the Trade, as an actual measurement system, that will adapt 
itself to all figures of proportion and disproportion (as so called). 

The means of production are simple and easy, and, to a practical 
Tailor, the idea must be self-evident, of the qualities above mentioned. 

To make a system that will please every Tailor is a very difficult 
matter; but every experienced Cutter will admit, that unless a coat is 
cut right in all its points and bearing, it will not fit ; or rather, unless a 
coat is well-balanced to the form intended, with the shoulder point, 

the FRONT OF SCYE, the NATURAL WAIST, the HEIGHT OF SHOULDER, 

&c, perfectly right, it is sure to be detected. 

A BREAST MEASURE, SHOULDER MEASURE, ADMEASURE, Or GRADU- 
ATED measurement system will never answer as a certainty ; for the 
present way of both drafting and measuring, it cannot be done so accu- 
rate as required. 

I am not going to condemn a particular system, or any ; but I will 
explain why I have a better and more correct plan for drafting out the 
measures to be sure of a perfect fit every time, proportionate or dispro- 
portionate, by taking the measure of the body, and applying the same in 
all cases, without calculation the direct measures (only the addition of 



judgment in shaping the pattern to form intended) ; and no trying on 
will ever be required, save only in the most extreme freaks of nature. 

I do not intend to prolong any part of my work, further than a clear 
explanation; so that it shall not be the least complicated, but simple 
and to the point. 

After a little practice, the nearest estimate of measures to the re- 
quired form will come to hand, as readily as any old Thirds or Breast 
Measure Division ; so that it can be used for drafting when inconve- 
nient measures have to be encountered ; but the principal bearing or 
balance of a coat is different on every person : very few men can have 
a really good fit from one coat, or without the whole measures, using 
it as a Divisional System. 

Although, in ready-made work, a coat is cut large enough to allow 
the points to be free from contraction, and so successfully is it done 
that many a customer is lost because he feels better satisfied ; and it 
frequently happens, that a class of customers could be better fitted in 
a ready-made store, than under the Professed Custom Cutter, because 
of the uncertainty. 

To fit well, a Cutter ought to understand anatomy, not altogether by 
its Latin name for each part, but the shape of the human frame in the 
eye ; and, as the eye often deceives, then he requires the correct 
quantity, in measure of those parts, to make certain the quantity of 
material required. 

I will now leave you to the elucidation of the problem, that of find- 
ing the shoulder point, and the reason it was not found before ; yet, so 
easy to the Cutter that has little practised to become acquainted with 
it, the same as an expert. 

Therefore, I claim to have placed that boon to the trade which 
seemed impossible. 

Hoping you will favor me in my fortunate endeavors, 

I am, gentlemen, yours respectfully, 

Edward Scamell. 



INSTRUCTIONS FOR MEASURING AND 

DRAFTING. 

HOW TO MEASURE. 

This plan of measuring is considerably different to most admeasure- 
ment systems, although belts have been used, and cross or short 
measures, as near alike in some cases ; but, as it will be seen, I use a 
measure from front of breast to side of waist, which connects the 
whole in triangles. 

No one can invent a Coat System without going over the same steps 
in many instances as others ; yet at the same time embodying ideas 
quite different to any ; each aiming at the same, but one resulting 
more satisfactorily and successfully than the other. 

I deem it necessary to measure on the vest, as any discrepancy in 
the form is easier detected, also padded shoulders ; and any thick sub- 
stance, or an ill-fitting coat will not throw out the measures ; besides, 
the coat has to fit over the vest (excepting an Overcoat). 

To obtain the measures (enclosed with this system when obtained) 
are two balance tapes, one for the breast, and the other for the waist. 
These tapes, or belts, have the inches starting from the middle. Take 
either one, and place around the breast, clasping the two half measures 
of breast, say 18 for 36 ; apply the same with waist belt say 16 for 32. 
Then see that the starting measures on the belts are in line with the 
back seam, or middle of back, and have the breast belt as near under 
the arm as possible ; and the waist belt just over the hips, in the 
natural waist ; make them a correct parallel around the body, to a 
circle, as the circle would be on the floor. 

This is quicker and easier accomplished than it appears. 

First, notice that your customer is stood in his general position ; as 
many are liable to expand their chest, while being measured. 

Enter the measures on breast belt, at F opposite G Fig. 1, and j 
Fig. 2, front of scye, to I front of breast ; then L and K on waist belt. 

These belts might be dispensed with altogether, by using the com- 
mon inch tape to the same stations, marking at B and at F opposite G 



Fig. i, and J Fig. 2 to I ; also D Fig. I, and L Fig. 2, as above; 
this would be quite as sure, but not so convenient. 

Then proceed with the common 60 inch tape, taking the measures 
as straight as possible, and moderately tight, by beginning at nape of 
neck A Fig. 1, to B breast belt, D waist belt, taking the length of 
waist seam, and full length required. 

This obtains the proper length of back in sections, parting the 
Spine (" vertere") at two particular stations, in line of bottom of scye, 
and natural waist. 

From A to F opposite the rise of shoulder G, this, and the measure 
F G obtains the amount of material required over the Blade-bone 
(" Scapula "), then from A to H a little to the front, on top of collar- 
bone ^ Clavicle") generally from 3 to 4 inches, make a mark, and 
from H to G top of shoulder, mark. 

From F to G, front of scye to J Fig. 2, and L at waist belt. Then 
proceed from H to I Fig. 2 front of breast to L side of waist, starting 
again from H to J and D Fig. 1. With the addition of back width 
from W taking the length to elbow, and of sleeve the measures are 
complete. 

These measures find the correct quantity of material required in 
each section or triangle, covering the whole muscles (" lattissimus 
dorsi, pectoral, and deltoid"). 

Entered thus (for imaginary 36 size). 

5. 12. 18 — 8. 16 — 9*. i6i. iSh- 32 — n — 3J; 3 — 
F.J. I— L. K— B. D AF-AH. HG- 

9. i6h. 24I- — 9<h 205 — 9. 2ii — j\. 22. 32 — 
FG. GJ. JL — HI. IL — HJ. JD. 

These are to explain the draft, as every man will measure different, 
also to obtain a block pattern, convenient to young beginners. 

Garments are always so changeable in style and appearance, that no 
direct pattern can be made; the cutter must put his own style, or the 
fashion of the age, or that which best satisfies his customers ; but as 
he has to draft into different shapes and measures, it would be requi- 
site first, at any rate, to have by a block pattern as a guide only ; some 
men always adhere to that plan. 

When one shoulder is lower than the other, or any difference of 
shape appears on the left side, measure in the same opposite way, that 
part, or all that side, which is needed. 



HOW TO DRAFT. 

THE BACK. Dia. 3. 

Draw a straight line from A to E, measure down the length of 
natural waist D, mark in i^ inches for the spring of back skirt, draw 
another line from A to D, then take the length to B breast belt, at C 
waist seam and full length, then form the back seam according to 
shape of customer, measure in from B to F forming a pivot with A F, 
square from A at top, in 3 inches, make a rise about i inch, little or 
much, according to the erect and stooping, shape from A to H a cur- 
vature, measure in to H, then pivot H G F, take the width of back at 
W, draw a line through station B and F simply to guide the chalk 
from K so as to form the back to compare with side-body. 

Mark the rest according to style ; as a guide the width at D is gen- 
erally about 2 inches, and at A 2| to 3 inches ; leave the points H G 
attached till connected with the forepart. 

THE FOREPART AND SIDEBODY. Dia. 2. 

Draw a line from J to I, and make a square at I down, place the 
breast measure at I to mark at station J the measure 12, then pivot I J 
H — JHG — JI L — and J L M — and allowing the round required 
on sidebody, generally from J to I inch, take the. measure from B to 
J, with chalked at B a curve to rest the point of back. Place D of 
back, Dia. 5, to point M, Dia. 2, and at B, form the sidebody from the 
back, starting from the bottom, throwing the extra length of sidebody 
in the scye. 

Make a square from the line I K, with line of bottom of sidebody. 
as a guide of waist seam, allowing about 1 1 inches for hollow over 
hips, turning up the square in line with I K to square from the point 
H to measure down as a guide for the neck gorge, about 2-V to 3 
inches, but it can be optional to the cutter to pivot a measure taken 
from I and J to front of neck. 

Fit the back to points H G and draw a line from J G for front of 
scye ; the coat can be formed by taste and judgment. 



Hollow the shoulder of forepart a little between H G according to 
the shape required, and lower it the left of G to fit over the shoulder, 
fitting the back from H to arm scye, and complete the same. 

The points and balance of the Coat are now obtained, but as there 
is such a difference in opinion and taste, as to style fronts and how to 
obtain them, I leave that to the Cutter's good judgment. A vee should 
always be taken out for forming the breast, and taking away the loose 
material. As a guide some Cutters add about one inch over the meas- 
ure of breast and waist for the button stand of a single breast when 
seams are allowed ; double breasted about the same ; from the middle 
position of the buttons. 

If a fish or vee is taken out between K and I L to tighten the front 
over the breast, it should not go so far as to interfere with that meas- 
ure, but whatever should be taken out between any measure, the same 
must be allowed for in the drafting. Also, the Coat at present is a 
skin tight draft, any addition of seams, thickness of goods, padded 
shoulders, and elastic goods must be allowed for. 

Now to the Point of Proof that the Shoulder Point is found. 

The body is measured and drafted in small angles, over every part 
it particularly requires; in fact, the measures are on the same bearing 
as a Coat would be ; and the drafting is pivoted by one angle to the 
other, triangulating it as correctly as on the body. 

It cannot be measured in correct squares ; therefore a square could 
not draft it correctly. 

It cannot be measured in correct circles ; therefore a circle could 
not draft it correctly. 

But a changeable triangular measure can be taken, and correctly 
pivoted afterwards. 

When a man is smaller at waist than at breast, some parts of the 
body are in a conical shape, while the other parts are comparatively 
straight. For instance, place a band around a conical shape as straight 
as possible in one, then cut in the middle, and open to lay on a flat 
surface, the hoop or band will take a- circuitous route. 

So in the shape of the body, those changes are apparent. 

Take the angle measures, A, F, and B. F, on account of more 
length from A around the blade bone than from A to B in comparison, 



9 

so when drafted is lower than at B, from a square at B and A ; yet 
when placed to the sidebody and forepart, J, L, and M, Diagram 2, it 
will run almost, and sometimes in a line with the breast-belt measure, 
which, in this case, when drafted, should take the opposite circuitous 
route ; so it acts in unison and harmony with the human frame. 
Hence the uncertainty of a square, &c. 

I use a measure quite new to the general way, that from I to L and 
J to L. This combines the whole angles, and finds exactly the amount 
of material required over the breast and toward the waist. 

It is a folly to think a moment that the distance could be judged 
correct enough, when the breast and waist measures, the erect and 
stooping, the muscles, expansion of ribs, the corpulent, the flatness of 
stomach, are the noticeable changes on every person ; and whatever 
the judgment errs between I and L, so the shoulder point is thrown 
out of its balance. « 

Where too much is allowed between H, I, and L, coats fall away at 
the side and back ; and when there is not enough allowed, it will throw 
the coat off the breast, with ugly creases about the breast and arm scye. 
This refers mainly to a tight-fitting coat, with seam at waist. 

In an Oversack or common Sack Coat it is not so observable, as that 
kind of Coat does not rest so much above the hips ; but the weight of 
the material pulls it in a graceful hang ; and in this case, it is better to 
allow a little more than the measures between those spaces, especially 
when required to hang loose ; as mainly in a Sac, there are only three 
principal points, the Shoulder Point, Height of Shoulder, and Scye. 

Looseness under the arm of coats is caused by too much swell on 
the sidebody, or the sidebody too long, or the scye not deep enough, 
or back too short ; but oftener and more apparent when the Height of 
Shoulder is not correct ; or again (in the explanation of the measuring 
A, F, B, and D), the back is not drafted and joined correctly to the 
sidebody. 

Now in the above, and all other parts of the body, the correct meas- 
ures of the same are taken, and the exact shape of the body preserved 
in the drafting, is ample proof of the certainty of the Shoulder Point, 
and all other Points being obtained on every shaped peison. 



10 



THE SLEEVE. Dia. i. 

The sleeve or skirt of a coat cannot be influenced much by the 
actual measures, save only in the length and width ; but in the top of 
sleeve, the roundness more or less is influenced by the shoulder, if the 
Cutter makes his shoulder in pattern small, more round must be added 
to sleeve : if extra large, little less. This draft is intended for a moder- 
ate width shoulder ; but the shape otherwise depends entirely on 
style and fashion. 

Square V R X measure from R to N, 4 inches, and from R to V 
9 inches, the half size of scye, and for every inch above or under 9 
inches, so increase or decrease the measure R to N one half inch. 
Draw a line through V, measure from N up towards V the half size of 
scye, mark the round to W (the principal part of the round being little 
more than half the distance between R and V, from R) proceeding to 
N, hollow the seam between N and X, measuring up from X about one 
and a half inches : take the length of sleeve, from V to F and U, 
draw a line through to each measure as a guide for the chalk, after 
taking the width of sleeve required at F and X U, forming the same 
accordingly. 

THE SKIRTS. Dia 5. 

This shows diagram skirts, for a dress Coat, and short Coat with 
rounded front. 

Squaring O Z and T, go in at F three quarters of an inch, and from 
P to F i£, out to T about 9! inches, take the measure of waist and 
chalk to the style of the times. 

Dia. 6. 

Square URL from U to M 3 inches, square from R to V 12 
inches, and to S 4£, draw a line from R through M, and hollow waist a 
little as required, form the swell from S to R, as needed, make width 
same all round, as the length of skirt might be. 

The draft for the skirts will answer the same for all sizes ; but in the 
stooping and extra erect, allowance on the forepart and skirt must be 
made, and an extra measure on the forepart from K waist belt down. 
Fig. 2 would be well to take in any extreme of the above, — stooping, 
or extra erect. 



1 1 



AN OVERSACK. 

DOUBLE-BREASTED, FLY FRONT, SINGLE-BREASTED, 
A SHORT CUT-AWAY, OR DOUBLE-BREASTED 
REEFER, YACHTING JACKET, OR BASE • BALL. 

DlA. 3 AND 4. 

As may be noticed on Dia. 2, the mark for a Single Breasted Frock, 
so the alterations required for differently shaped coats are given in 
Dia. 4. 

This kind of coat is drafted the same way exactly, but the measure 
must be taken over the coat in this instance (for an Overcoat), and 
always over the body, as the garment is intended to cover. 

The back is obtained by drawing a line from A to E taking the 
entire length, at the natural waist D go in about ii inch for spring, as 
in Frock Coat back. Make the width of back according to style. 

The Forepart is drafted in the same way as Dia. 2, with the excep- 
tion of putting more spring or rather looseness as required, and squar- 
ing the line at bottom, with length of back to use as a guide in judging 
the extra length on Forepart. 

I have shown in this Diagram a plan of fitting the collar to the 
gorge, by drawing a line through the point at H from the length of the 
turn, as in X Y and Z. Say the turn is to be at Y, so the crease of 
collar would be, form the collar accordingly, which will allow the cor- 
rect spring at H, and have a good fitting collar to the intended roll. 

Having explained as clear as possible, in as less space as practica- 
ble, I would say that I have made no pretence to form any extra 
style in the diagrams, but plain for clearness ; and I wish to be under- 
stood, that the style of garments are not obtained by systems, but the 
Cutter's good judgment. With that, and my plan of measuring and 
drafting, great success will attend Coat Cutting, and the Cutter. 



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